Heritage - KOHL - History of the the Kajal (Surmah) of Oman


Collecting shells at the Whitesand Beach
'Kohl' is the eye-liner used commonly by women, kids and even older men in the MENA region. Do you remember those sketchy eyes and arched eye-lashes of the people of the Nile from ancient Egypt? Yes, they are sported Kohl liners as cosmetics way back in 1200 BC.

It stems from the Arabic word - Kuhl which is normally made from a powder carbon / sulphide along with some essentail oils such as the olive oil.

In Oman, a study of Kohl samples revealed that they contained powdered Galena (Lead Sulphide) (http://isebindia.com/05_08/07-07-1.html) and some mollusk shell powders. Another common recipe is to brun the fragnant gum 'Luban' from the Frankincense tree (Boswelia Sacra) and collect the soot from an inverted bowl to mix with herbal oils.

Historically the Murex mollusks were used to make the famous Tyrian Purple dye and the colour 'purple' is still considered a royal colour. (http://pffc-online.com/mag/1348-paper-history-shellfish-royalty). Here the selected sea shells are crushed to add a sheen to the kohl. The smoke of the burnt shells is also collected as soot and then mixed with oils as secret formulae.

Sometimes burnt roots of local plants such as the Blepharis Ciliaris (Eye-lashes plant) or Aerva Javanica are powdered and made into a paste for mascara.

Kohl defines the lines of the eye, making it more attractive. They were considered to avert-evil glances. Aprt from that herbal ingredients used in them give a cooling effect to the eyes and also protect from some minor eye-diseases.

The traditional Kohl contains is quite atttractive and the silver ones have lining-rods attached to the lid. Buy one as a souveneir from the Muttrah or Nizwa Souk (market).

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